Normally before I start the engine ill have to crank it for 1-1.5 seconds before it fires on its own, but if i cycle the key once so that it puts out the priming pulse 2 times instead of 1 time it will start up immediatly. I have the GM CTS in the radiator hose, not in the head. I have my warm up enrichment set pretty well, it wonders from about a 14.5 when I initially start the engine to about a 15.5 right before teh thermostat opens. Tomarrow I might be able to toss on my cold pipe and tune for 5lbs. Now i just have to dial in my afr's so i achive good fuel effeciency and make some power NA. I worked out alot of querks that were in the ve table and the car dose not break up at any map or rpm reading now. Its definitly coming along easy, and I love the 3d tuning tables with the gauges off to the side. Today on the way into work, I was watching the wbo2 and made some adjustments as well as timing advance. I can figure it out while someone or myself is driving the car, just wanted to know if ya had any tips off the top of your head. I have many many different roads that are empty where i have all the room and time in the world to do what ever I want. If I was unable to get the crank pulley balenced I would have machined down the a\c section of the pulley to mount my wheel. What this does is eliminates P/S for me but since I removed P/S and A/C I had 2 spots to choose. The Escort wheel is pressed onto the crank pulley, what I did was I took my crank pulley along with the trigger wheel and had a guy machine down a portion of my pulley and had the wheel pressed on. Regardless if EDIS Module doesnt receive a signal from MS it should bring your motor to 10* BTDC as a way of "Limp Mode". If you do this and turn off the car than restart does it still do it? If so it might be the VR sensor is off. When you do this, do you do it while the car is on and the car running? If you do it while the car is running it might take the 22btdc as memory and stay at that. But we got it to the point where its pretty nice on WOT and pretty good daily driving, but I have some mechanicaly issues to work out as well. So far we only did our VE tables and a few other things, I havent even messed with my Coldstart and Warm up procedures.
Plus you can isolate things ALOT better than on real traffic. A good way of doing accel enrich is pretty much just follow what the guide says but when doing adjustments I'd do it on a dyno because your in a controlled environment and its safe. Lmao, i dont know whether i read it or not, but I put the same exact mark on my crank pulley for alignment of the VR sensor, 90 off tdc. How much power before i start blowing out spark with this ford coil pack? The 36-1 wheel i have, I welded it on to the front of the crank pulley and had it zero balanced. You used the entire wheel off the escort ? how is that attached. Although quite redundant if edis dose not recive saw from ms2, that shit is fucked and wont run anyways. Or go anywhere at all, it chills at the 22btdc.
When I disconnect my SAW my timing advance dose not return to 10btdc.
Other then the information on the megasquirt manual can you tell me anything about fine tuning accel enrichment, some theory or base idea of where to start?Ġo0o, it really is not a problem but. Ill finish the VE table while i have the intercooler pipe off so i have no worries about hurting anything, once i have the engine tuned good NA, ill put the cold pipe on and start boost tuning, 5,7,9,12,15psi. I am still working out the VE table, i have not had much time to "tune" the car, nor have i had the laptop to run megalogviewer.
I might need a little slap on my head about how to tune the accel enrichment.
Where are you located? I have installed my ms2 and will be tuning it myself on my turbo ka.